sorry for getting to the party soooooo late here
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So I've been really enjoying my new Fender Jaguar bass, but one problem has emerged ... the action is not really set that low, and the saddles on my bridge are already about as high as they can go. Checking the bow of the neck, I can see there is no backbow, and even when I loosen the truss rod and raise the action to the point where it is almost unplayable, I still get lots of buzzing in the upper frets.
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I've even gone as far as switching necks with my Frankenjazz to see if the problem would go away. The neck I switched is a warmoth in goncalo alves with an ebony fretboard, and it plays very well on the jazz (super low action with no buzzing). But when I put it on the Jag, I got the exact same excessive buzzing. So I know the problem is not the neck.
This would be so easy to check in person, but difficult to describe how to check via text in a forum ...
You'll need a long straight edge that is at least the length of the distance from your first fret past then end of the neck. Lay the edge across the neck next to your E-string and measure the gap at the larget distance and note which fret it's at. Take note to visually see if you have an even slope down from one contact point down towards this low spot and back up to the contact point. Be specifically on the lookout for any kind of wobble or small humps - especially in the upper fret areas. If you see any, take measurement of the difference and note which fret(s) this is at. OK, now do the same for the G-string side of the neck. It's important that you measure as accurately as possible. In my shop I'd be using feeler gauges to the .001", but by eye you're going to be good to get things to the closest 1/64"
Depending on what you report back, there's more to investigate here. What you report back will help determine which direction to go
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it could be do to body warp
While this is possible, I highly doubt it to be the case. Easy to check for though ... with the neck removed, lay a long straight edge on the body along the centerline. the edge should lay reasonably flat along the body. if you have a significant low spot in the middle of the body, you have a problem. if not, you're good
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UPDATE: I put a shim in and it just made the problem worse. Any more ideas?
Like Peter noted - it's all about where you put that shim ... let's hold-off on shims just yet, as it's best to determine the root issue before bandaging is applied
I'd also like you to accurately measure the depth of your neck pocket with a dial caliper. In this case, knowing the depth at several places will help confirm if what I believe to be the case is realy the issue. Measeure the depth at the edge closest to the neck (on centerline if you don't have a trussrod access adjustment slot, just to the side of it if you do) and also as close as you can get to the edge of the body before encountering the topside round over. I'm looking to be certain your neck pocket is of the proper depth, and also if it is compensated for the neck angle or not. (i.e. the shim is built into the pocket, essentially making it unparallel to the body top)
And while you're measuring the neck pocket depth, look to make sure there's not any blob of paint, wood chips, or goo in the pocket bottom that would cause the neck to tilt when coming in contact with it.
That's it for now. I'll be looking for your reply
all the best,
R