Anyone remember the Strange Change Machine from your childhood? (you'd have to be at least 40 something to remember). Coolest toy ever. Well, move over, Strange Change, 'cause 3D printing's my new hobby. I've become a 3D printing fanatic. Got one for Christmas and I've printed a few fun things so far. The first projects were attempts at dinosaurs for my daughter, which initially turned out looking like deformed globs. Further adjustments have greatly improved the results, and the more I learn about it the better I'm getting. There's literally thousands of great design ideas out there, and now I'm just getting into modifying and designing my own creations.
Anyway, I'm pretty happy with my first attempt at a bass ramp. This was designed specifically for my '72 Jazz bass. I found the design online and modified it for a lefty. The beauty of this ramp is it's non-destructive, as it mounts to your bass via the two lower pickguard screws. (An additional piece of double stick tape on the opposite side helps further keep it in place). Printed in 2 parts, the first part is the underside lift that is placed right on the body between the bridge PUP and the edge of the pickguard. This brings the overall surface up evenly so the ramp can sit level.
3D printing is a temperamental process. All sorts of little tweaks and fine tuning to get it right. I made some rookie mistakes first time out. The top piece warped and corners curls upwards slightly while printing. I was able to bend it back in shape via some soaking in hot water, but like a dummy I used tongs to hold it in place and I caused a dent in the top of the ramp (see photo). I could correct it via some putty, but I won't bother for now. Also, printed results can come out with rough edges and visible section lines. To remove them, both dry and wet sanding is required in ascending grits, 100grit upwards to as much as 2500 grit, depending on how polished you want your results to be. I kinda like the look when it first comes out though, or even with just a rough 100grit sanding application, as it almost looks like weathered ebony with a wood grain proximity. (see photo). I only have black filament right now, but if I pursue this further will probably try some wood filaments for a different look. They also recommend applying acetone or a product called XTC 3D print coating for a more finished shiny lacquer look, applying 3 or more coats and sanding each way. I didn't bother. I got a decent matte finish shine via sanding and applying Brasso, then buffed it. Good enough for now. The ramp looks like it's been through some gigs already.
Attachment:
IMG_4610.jpg [ 46.85 KiB | Viewed 7223 times ]
Attachment:
IMG_4611.jpg [ 71.92 KiB | Viewed 7223 times ]
Attachment:
IMG_4613.jpg [ 69.36 KiB | Viewed 7223 times ]
Anyway, I'm still a novice and this is still an ongoing learning process. I'll be designing and making more bass ramps in the future. But if anyone's interested in being a guinea pig for a bass ramp, let me know and I'll try to make one for you.
I've also made some picks, a string winder, and a sheet music page holder so far too, so if you've got other ideas or needs lemme know. I could use the practice.
No fun when you're 3 hours into a print and it all comes undone! This bass ramp took about 5 hours to print, all told, though I printed it slow and I'm going to experiment with faster print speeds and the heated bed to see if I can cut down on the print time and not sacrifice quality.
