LeftyBassist.com

I would run over some old ladies for this one!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120901554586?ss ... 1423.l2649

If you can't afford the bass now, you certainly won't be able to buy it and pay to have your car repaired!

wowza!

beautiful finish!

@Thunbslamb : Better beef up the car insurance before you buy this

One of my few basses I had sellers remorse on.. My 2005 BN5 FBass. They are great basses.

This one is great for any lefty that strings righty. Not so much for a 100% lefty. The neck is a righty neck. The B string is not extended with 2 tuners on the bass side. That does make a difference but nothing the less, George F builds some killer basses and attention to detail he has. Someone should snatch this up. Thumbslam, you don't have enough room for more basses

Gravebass- on the 'not a lefty neck' comment...how big of an issue is this really? Would a normal human being be able to tell a difference in resonance or whatever, or is it just the fact that it's not a pure lefty that bugs you? I'm considering bidding on this one...

My fretless Fbass was 3 on top 2 on the bottom. It sounded great and I think it would be hardly noticeable at all. I wouldn’t let it stop me...

The only way a righty neck on a lefty bass would affect anything is if the neck was asymmetrical and was actually shaped to be used for a right handed player. I don't think that's the case with this bass, as it was used for a left handed player... and I doubt GF would put an incorrect neck on any bass.

I suppose some people might be able to tell the difference in tension having an extra inch or two of length between the tuning peg and the bridge, but I can't possibly imagine how that little bit of distance could make any noticeable difference... personally, I cannot tell the difference between basses that have strings "through body" or "through bridge" in either feel or tonality, so I might be the wrong person to discuss this topic. I even recorded samples of my Lakland strung both ways, and it was impossible to tell.

I also see people say that lefty basses that are strung righty will be damged somehow over time... this doesn't make any sense to me either since necks are not designed to support more tension on one side over the other. If necks were designed to support more tension on the bass side versus the treble side, I could see that there might be a difference after years and years and years... but, honestly, the strings are so close together at the nut, the minimal difference in tension between the treble and bass strings would be a total nonissue.

Unless I'm mistaken, the length between the tuning peg and bridge isn't relevant at all. Tension is a factor of (1) the distance between the bridge saddle and the nut, (2) the mass of the string between those two points, and (3) pitch. That's all that matters.

The bass is beautiful and the price isn't bad at all.

I'm with you... which is why it's hard for me to get a grasp on the endless debates about string tension of "through body" vs "through bridge" etc, etc, etc.

There are some VERY smart builders who believe it does make a difference... Mike Lull adds a "string through" ferrule for only the B string because he believes it makes a difference... and Rob Elrick has a special "extended B" headstock design that allows the B to be wound to a tuning peg furthest away from the nut, at the end of the headstock. Here's a picture:



It's hard to argue with these guys since they know WAAAAY more about this shit than I do... and maybe it does make a bit of difference to guys with a really light touch... but I'm pretty heavy-handed and don't think it would make a bit of difference to me.

The neck is a right handed neck installed on a left handed bass BECAUSE its strung right handed from the initial order and George now uses longer distance on his B string. As noted from Thumbslam, that was an older FBass and the older ones (NY, Etc) were 3 top 2 bottom. The tension is more with longer distance. I didnt say it was built incorrect or George F built it wrong. I know George and he builds some of the best basses to date. He takes orders and does what he thinks is correct for that instrument. On the Mike Lull basses, they are already 35" scale so you really are not going to hear a difference stringing the B thru the body. I didnt and tried many strings. I left it string thru bridge. He now does 34" scale but I would def do thru body on the B for reasons I wont mention here. String thru body just adds more tension on the strings.

So, to all the Gassers here..... that FBass is a great bass and if you want it, buy or bid on it. I was just stating its got a right neck on it. Thats it. Take it what you will.

The headstock is "right handed"... but is the neck profile right handed too?

If that's a right-handed neck then the asymmetrical neck profile would be for right handed players... that would be horrible for any builder to do.

I believe F-basses have asymmetrical necks on them, and all I was saying is that it doesn't make sense that GF would put a right handed neck on a lefty bass since it would have a completely different feel to it for a left handed player.

As long as the asymmetrical neck profile is left handed, I don't really care if the headstock is 2+3 or 3+2 or whatever.

Doesn't that have more to do with creating more 'downforce' on the bridge saddle by guiding the string over the saddle in a sharper angle to enhance transfer of vibrations to the body? I believe it doesn't change a thing about the string tension from bridge to nut, but it's done because the output of the B string is naturally slightly weaker than the other strings.

@ Addison.. Right handed direction neck (headstock) but sure the shaping on back is not right handed. If you know Georges necks, they taper on the back for the higher registry. I am sure he shaped it appropriately for this bass (look at the heel direction). They are all hand made, hand sanded necks. He probably used the righty headstock because the strings are upside down and the B length would be correct strung righty. On a 34 or 34.5 (Georges basses), I would rather have the B extended on a 34" scale bass. Keep in mind, this bass is 34", NOT 34.5 like the BN Series.
Note: The 6 string version of this bass is 34.5 and 24 frets. Hope this helps.

http://www.fbass.com/models/model/vf

http://www.fbass.com/instock/stock/050710

Thanks for all the help guys. I will call Gf to clarify...now I know that as soon as I buy it, the roscoe LG3005 I've been saving for will emerge....decisions, decisions...

My advice, buy the FBass.... Its a good deal too. Let us know how it is.

It certainly doesn't increase string tension, given the scale length, pitch, and string mass are the same. I highly doubt Lull and company are claiming the string thru ferrule or extended tuning peg affects tension. They would be arguing against a physical law.

That's my understanding. A sharper breakpoint angle and therefore more sustain. But increased tension? No.

Well, I'd argue against any claims of increased sustain or clarity too, because there is no audible difference in any of the A/B tests I tried.

I am gonna disagree with you bbl. Added scale length "will" increase string tension (34" to 35"). I think Addison will also back this one up. I also noticed slight more string tension running the strings thru the body as well. Everything here on scale length is subject to personal ears and the builder doing things for a reason. If something is designed for an extended B, there is a reason for it. The bass has a bid on it. BIN is gone. Hope someone here gets it.