I use several workflows to finish off a bass. Finishing is the toughest part, as Rod will attest to.
This is the first time I've attempted this workflow, in that, the top coat is actually epoxy resin.
These are the steps that I've taken to get to this step. This bass has a swamp ash body with a
flame maple top. The top was damaged by an inexperienced painter but the body is still usable.
These steps usually denote "one day" in production time.
Step one:
I sanded the body back to bare wood. I used a "Mouse" sander with 80 grit, then 100 and 220.
Then I switch to a sanding block and "just paper" for the sides - 220, then 300.
Step two:
Clean the body with acetone, then re-sand any grins that may have popped up.
Step three:
I used ReRanch Products for this bass, although I don't use them that often - I send my bodies out
for paint, normally. But the ReRanch products work well. For a swamp ash body you need to fill the grain.
I used their "San and Sealer", four coats, then sanded the body down with 220 grit. I didn't grain seal the
maple as it doesn't need it.
Step four:
Used ReRanch "White Lacquer Based Primer", the whole can, to prime the body. Again, sanded, but with
300 grit just to get a nice even surface.
Step five:
Paint. Used one can of ReRanch LPB, which is four or five coats. You don't sand metallics unless you're
knocking back a drip or mistake. I barely sanded the body.
Step six:
If you're going to try their products I'd suggest two cans of the "Nitrocellulose Clear Coat" as one can
is not loaded with enough product to give that deep gloss we expect in a finish. However, one can is
enough for this workflow as I just wanted to protect the finish enough to draw and paint on top of it.
With the clearcoat you don't sand in between layers - let them build. They'll look like crap but they'll
polish out very nicely. Once you have the nitro clearcoat on let the bass cure for at least a week - the
longer the better. Then sand. I started with 600 and stayed there. For this you just want to protect the
color.
Step seven:
Paint your design. I used acrylic paint. It's easy to work with, covers decent and will scrape easily off the
nitro when you make a mistake. In this photo you can see my pencil work. The blue is actually "negative"
space, the color of the bass.
Attachment:
100_1498.JPG
Step eight:
When your design is done, as it was in the original photo that I posted, it's time for the epoxy. This is messy
work and I'm doing it where I normally do my final builds. A clean room is a must - no dust falling, etc. In
both of these photos you can see that I actually installed the PUP's, bridge and clamped the neck onto the
bass. This was mainly to prevent the epoxy from entering the cavities and therefore they're stuck in there.
You can build blocks to place in there but I wanted this specific look. Same with the bridge - I wanted it to
be sealed in there and not laying on top of the epoxy. Follow the directions for the epoxy. A screw up now
means going all the way to step one. You just pour the epoxy over the bass and let it ooze over the sides.
Attachment:
100_1541.JPG
I'll wait until at least Thursday and then see what I've got.
Attachment:
100_1542.JPG
Step nine:
I'll whip up another batch of epoxy and mask off the sides, sand down the epoxy with 100 grit (careful not
to sand into the color) and use the remainder of the epoxy to BRUSH on the rear of the bass.
Step ten:
I'm a screw it all together and play it.
Pete
