LeftyBassist.com

There's one posted on Arni's leftybass.com site and I'm very inclined to take it, as I am looking to upgrade my 75 Jazz RI.

Does it make any difference if it's a bit worn or anything? Please advice!

be warned that utilizing a used BAII bridge may leave you needing to purchase replacement saddles so that you can properly install the string slots in the locations that suit your specific bass. if you need to purchase new saddles, it'll probably be less expensive to purchase a new BAII bridge instead

all the best,

R

I had one installed on my MIJ Fender '75 Jazz RI too. Looking at how the saddles of Arni's BA II were filed, I think it will be very similar in string spacing to the stock bridge on the Fender. I had mine filed slightly wider to suit the spacing of the pickup poles more accurately, as I found the stringspacing on the stock bridge a bit too narrow, so you may like the saddle slots just a little bit wider, but if you like the current stringspacing I think Arni's BA II will be just fine

I hope these pictures will help:

Just wondering - I thought you had bought that original USA Jazz from the 70s a while ago.
Did you get that '75 Jazz RI too that was listed on Marktplaats, from Wim de Heus in Best? Beautiful bass, and Wim is a great guy! I've met him a couple of times and played his Wal Mk I and Stingray 5 back when he still had those, and once bought an Ibanez SR800LE from him.

I took a look at this used bridge, and would like to point out two things (apologies in advance if this bridge belongs to anybody here):

- asking 55€ (plus shipping) for a used bridge, when a new one can be had for two or three € more is just crazy. check out BestBassGear.com (or other on-line guitar parts businesses) where these are available for 57.5€ (plus shipping)

- those slots are -very- poorly cut into the saddles, and do not reflect the proper method for slotting a BAII bridge saddle. the slots in the used saddle appear to have been cut with either the square edge of a file or they were first cut with a saw and then tapered with a flat file. proper slot installation in a BAII bridge saddle utilizes a rounded nut file to remove a slot with a rounded bottom that matches the diameter of the string that will be resting in it.


will it 'work' - probably, but why take the chances that it might not if you're only going to save a mere 2.5€ over the cost of a new bridge?

just my personal thoughts. I don't know the seller, and I don't have an on-line parts business - I have no vested interest in this transaction

all the best,

R

Hm, I looked more closely and I have to agree with you on the way the saddles were filed.
About the price though, these bridges sell for almost 100 euros here, new. So 55 really isn't such a bad price for a secondhand one. Getting one from the USA with shipping and all will get you at almost 80 euros (unless you order some other stuff at the same store to compensate a bit for the shipping costs), so 55 really doesn't seem that bad to me.

http://www.tonefactory.nl/shop2/product ... 3d7867471c

Well I'm glad with the replies, and it's a good thing my enthusiasm is cutting back cuz i'd have bought that thing blindly!
Eitherway, I will most likely get one online and drop my bass off at the luthier for filing + a decent set up..

Also, the bass I bought wasn't the one from Wim, but I got it off the bay from Ishibashi's webshop!
It's been serving me great so far and I'm really impressed with it's tonal abilities, but it could do with some more sustain IMO. Needless to say that's why I'm looking for another bridge

On that note.. Is the BA bridge the best option to go for, or are there others that would suit just as well but are a bit more cost effective?

The more cost-effective option would be a Gotoh 201. Like the Badass II, it fits your Fender without the need to drill new holes in the body. However, it doesn't color your tone as much as a Badass II does. The Badass II brightens up your tone a LOT, and the lows are tighter with more attack. Therefore it's not everyone's cup of tea. I couldn't be happier with mine, but I can imagine not everyone will like the change in tone.

Where in the Netherlands are you? Maybe we could compare our Fenders so you can hear the tonal difference for yourself.

Im in Breda and it'd be perfect if we can compare!
Let's continue this over PM

Not to mention a noticeable increase in sustain. Which brings me to something I've only just recently realized: You almost never see Badass II bridges on P basses, as the majority of them are put on Js. Wonder why?

speaking of badass II i need some advice, my badass II needs new set screws for the saddles, is there anyway i can buy those separately, or do i need to buy new saddles all together

check out the fastener section of Ace Hardware - if your local one is anything like the two or three newr me, odds are you'll find the replacement screws at under $.25/ea

all the best,

R

One thing to be careful of with the Gotoh 201; because the body plate is thicker than the original you may get some issues if you like a really low action - I installed mine on my MIM Jazz and only just had enough downward adjustment. Also remember to specify a lefthanded one if you can get one, as the slots on the standard item are cut for a right handed player and again can be a bit marginal for a lefthanded player. Other than that it's a terrific item and great value for money.

Huge +1 on Andy's assessment of the Gotoh bridge.

I have one sitting in a drawer at home and the reason why it's there is because I had to bottom-out the saddles on it and the action still wasn't low enough.

This proved true on both my Warmoth fretless Jazz AND my MIJ Fender Jazz... it was a huge bummer.

Since it was a special order, I couldn't return it to where I bought it, so there it sits... I'm not even sure if I have the saddle adjustment screws anymore since I just took them out completely.

So... as far as the Gotoh bridge goes, caveat emptor!

On a side note:

Anyone ever talk to Leo Quan (inventor of the Badass bass bridges) on the phone?

I was lucky enough to get him on the phone a couple of times, and he is one of the most knowledgable and downright nerdy-but-cool dudes I have ever talked to.

He has that totally mellow SF Bay Area vibe about him, but he talks like a mad scientist... I'm talking about hardcore knowledge of sound, and tones, and resonance... and he is not afraid to talk your ear off either. The second time we talked, we were on the phone for almost 90 minutes.

Super cool guy.

Oh, and if you're ever in the area, he would be the dude to make the install for you, as he told me that there are only about a handfull of people that he knows that actually know how to do the bridge slots correctly.

I did my own with a set of microfiles, and I can tell you that without the proper set of tools, it is NOT easy. The trick is to not go too deep, and make sure they are filed straight and at the right angle... try to take a good look at some of the pre-slotted Badass bridges that come on some Fender basses now... Leo Quan put his seal of approval on those particular slots, so you will want to try and mimic that as much as possible.

I really like this bridge, it's thinner on the bottom but thicker where the strings go thru. I replaced a Badass II with this one and I like it better. They are hard to find though, milled brass I think.