Joined: March 10th, 2008, 7:00 pm Posts: 1184 Location: Seattle, WA USA
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a properly cut nut is not symmetrical -
- the witness point in on the edge closest to the fretboard, and then it tapers down slightly inside of the nut. this keeps your string length terminating at the leading edge, and not somewhere inside the nut (which then has potential to cause an audible buzzing sound and issues with intonation)
- the string centerline spacing will be wider between the E/A strings than between the D/G strings (unless you utilize even center-to-center spacing which feels weird IMO)
- the top of the nut tapers down towards the headstock and not towards the fretboard
cutting a new nut from a blank is not a difficult endeavour for someone with a little experience and the right tools. finessing a nut to its optimum playing set-up is where the skill of a good tech is seen (or absent) ... you should also understand that a pre-slotted nut is not simply a drop-in replacement item - there's still a load of detail work to be done to that nut to make it 'playable'
if you're ordering a pre-slotted nut blank, it may or may not be usable as a lefty. a lot would depend on exactly how much shaping detail has been imparted to the blank ... and this would be impossible to know without actually having the specific nut in-hand
all the best,
R
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